Quick links. The infamous clutch was starting to slip noticeably at 28, miles. It was time for repair. There have been quite a few posts on this site about clutch installation, including the one very comprehensive post that provided photos of the process. To be honest, the photos, while interesing, weren't much help in the actual process.
Be very careful as you lower it to the ground. It is not adequate for the job in my opinion. I'll have the service manual. Remove the front wheels. You lose nothing in reliability, safety, or drivability on the street.
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Not Specified. Make sure one Vibe gt clutch time that no cables or wires are attached to the transmission. Sophie Tilley Clutcu 18, at AM. Just set it aside Iron fist fanfiction the firewall. The transmission should slide off the engine pretty easy at this point. Hard to imagine keeping the engine so still it doesn't tweak the exhaust. Check the toyota parts suppliers first. Install the flywheel with new mount bolts. Runs great, saved money! Now is also a good time to clean the shifter cable bell crank Vibe gt clutch pivot eyes and giving them a good greasing. And no GT, just the normal boring 1z cutch. I imagine that this is to create equal length drive shafts to counteract torque steer. Valid on orders shipped in the contiguous Gg States.
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- Going to be replacing the clutch on my buddys 06 gt vibe
Quick links. Technical info on the Pontiac Vibe and Toyota Matrix including do-it-yourself info. It was really not has hard as I thought it would be, but I would not recommend this procedure if this is the first time you have ever done a clutch change on anything.
You do not have to remove the engine to do this job, or have any special Toyota tools. You do need to support the engine as 3 of the motor mounts attach to the transmission and they need to be removed to pull the transmission. There will be only one engine motor mount attached when you pull the tranny out. Note that I did this job by myself. It would go much easier if you have a helper. The writer takes no responsibility for a damages or personal injury resulting from using these instructions.
Remove the hood. Be sure and mark the hood hinge where it meets the hood so that you can reinstall it in the correct position later. Jack up the car and support it with jack stands. Remove the front wheels. Remove from the engine the plastic cam box cover. The 2ZZ engine does not have a front engine lifting eye from the factory. I guess they had to remove it in order for the cool engine cover to fit.
I took the one off the back of the engine and bolted it to the provided spot on the left front corner of the engine head. You will see an empty threaded hole right above the alternator. You have to use this lift eye because it is the only one that will fit. The one I stole off my 96 Miata would not fit here so I put it on the rear of the engine. Remove the battery, tray and support. Remove the driver side splash shield from under the car. Toss the cruddy plastic clips that hold it on.
Use some proper 6mm bolts to attach it later. Remove the 2 screws holding the vacuum control relay on the front of the air cleaner lid. Unplug all the connectors to the air cleaner lid.
Remove air cleaner to throttle body hose. Pull off the other vacuum control relay from the back of the air cleaner lid. There is a small vacuum accumulation chamber on the back of the lid. Be very careful and pull off the vacuum hose from the nipple. I ended up breaking the nipple off when I did it. I just plugged off the hose, it did not seem to make any difference in how the car ran later.
There are several brackets that hold the various hoses, wires, etc in the engine compartment. Remove them and be sure and mark where they go for later reference. Remove the air cleaner bottom. Disconnect slave cylinder and brackets. There is no need to break the hydraulic connection.
Just set it aside by the firewall. Remove shifter brackets top and rear of transmission. Attach hoist to engine. Be very careful!!! Remove the starter. Remove the left front brake caliper and wire it out of the way.
Remove the brake disk. Remove the bolt that attaches the ABS sensor to the hub. Wire it out of the way. I was told that I would have to remove the 30mm nut from the axle end, but in the end I could not get it off with the cruddy air impact gun I had. Disconnect tie rod from end of steering knuckle. Remove the bolts on the strut and pull them out completely.
Remove the 3 bolts attaching the lower suspension arm to the steering knuckle. Pull the entire steering knuckle and axle shaft completely out of the transmission.
Unfortunately my CV joint separated and only the axle part came out. The stub remained in the transmission. No biggie as it turns out. Note that I did not have to remove the passenger side drive axle. When I pulled the transmission off the engine it slipped right off. There is no snap ring retaining it in the transmission. Make sure the motor is well supported by the motor lift and pull out all of the bell housing bolts. There are 2 17mm bolts on the top, trans side and 4 14mm bolts on the sides on the motor side.
Remove the bolts and nuts on the cross member under the engine. Remove all motor mount bolts, front, side and rear. Make sure one last time that no cables or wires are attached to the transmission. Use a large flat screw driver and start prying the bell housing away from the engine.
When it breaks free place a couple of floor jacks under it to support it. The transmission should slide off the engine pretty easy at this point. Be very careful as you lower it to the ground. It weighs 87 lbs. I got scared for a second when the transmission came off the engine and tried to slide off the jack. It turned out ok as I was able to manhandle it to the ground. Pull the tranny away from the car and clean it up. Pay particular attention to the area where the release bearing slides on the input shaft cover.
I saw a lot of rubbing here from insufficient lubrication. Use hi-temp grease on all pivot and slide points of the release lever. Of course always use a new release bearing. I was surprised to find no transmission pilot bearing on this engine. Cost cutting move???
Remove pressure plate and clutch disk. Note fried flywheel. Get it surfaced even if it looks good. This clutch had 60K miles of easy driving. It really started to go south at 45K we just milked it for a while. Use a 10mm They will be full of thread locker from the old bolts. Install the flywheel with new mount bolts. The Toyota part number is There are 8 of them. Install new clutch disk and pressure plate. It is not adequate for the job in my opinion.
Since I could not find a clutch disk centering tool, I did the best I could to center the disk. This turned out to be a real problem later. Find the tool if you can! I used locktite on the threads. Now the fun part begins. Installing the transmission on the engine. I tried to support the transmission on a floor jack and jack it up into position to stab it on the engine. It did not work because there is no flat area on the bottom of the transmission to balance it on the jack.
I ended up laying the tranny on the floor of the garage under the car. While standing on top of the engine with one foot on the exhaust manifold and the other on the engine lift I reached down under the engine a grabbed the transmission and lifted it up onto the engine. It took me 4 tries to stab it on the engine but I finally got it.
Disconnect tie rod from end of steering knuckle. I tried to support the transmission on a floor jack and jack it up into position to stab it on the engine. It's done this for 3 winters. Note fried flywheel. Just did it on the fly since i didn't want to waste all the time that they did by disconnecting unnecessary parts.
Vibe gt clutch. You are here
Clutch Replacement Hints - GenVibe - Community for Pontiac Vibe Enthusiasts
Quick links. The infamous clutch was starting to slip noticeably at 28, miles. It was time for repair. There have been quite a few posts on this site about clutch installation, including the one very comprehensive post that provided photos of the process. To be honest, the photos, while interesing, weren't much help in the actual process. This info may help others who are considering the project. I won't go into all the details, because much of the job is self evident to anyone familiar with manual transmission vehicles.
I'll just hit some of the main points that many seem to be concerned with. You've got to remove the air cleaner assembly and all the other stuff over the transmission. I took a digital photo after removing each component. There are a lot of wires, sensors, brackets etc. I highly recommend this. It's not really necessary to remove the right axle shaft, but it makes putting the trans back in a little easier.
I removed it because I wanted to make the job as easy as possible. It comes out easily after removing the two bolts on the mid-shaft carrier bearing. Because I removed both axle shafts, the ball joints and sway bar were disconnected from the swing arms on the K-member. This made it simple to remove the four 21mm bolts that secure the K-member on which the steering rack is mounted.
With the K-member out of the way there's a lot of room to work around the trans. The only touchy part was removing the pressure hose from the power steering pump. Not much room to get at the 19mm nut. It's not really necessary to remove the K-member, but since time wasn't an issue I have two other vehicles I decided to make the job as easy as possible.
The trans is wide open with the K-member out of the way. I also removed the left strut to gain easier access to the trans. With all of these components removed, removal and installation of the trans was a breeze. Also, having the K-member off the car gives you a chance to do a thorough inspection of the front suspension and steering. Now would be a great time to replace components if needed.
The Exedy replacement clutch kit I used included an alignment tool, but since there's no pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, it was useless. I eyeballed the clutch disc to the center of the pressure plate and hoped for the best. As I expected, I couldn't get the trans to mate against the block because the clutch disc wasn't in perfect alignment with the splines on the trans input shaft. I solved this problem by starting the trans mounting bolts, and tightening them slowly while alternately turning the flywheel with a screwdriver to make sure that the input shaft was entering the splines in the clutch disc.
Any binding of the flywheel would indicate severe mis-alignment. Luckily, there wasn't any and the trans seated completely without a problem. A word on the Exedy clutch. Some say this is the stock clutch and should be avoided. It isn't. A comparison revealed that it's a completely different unit.
The new clutch is strong and grabby and feels much better than the old one. Time will tell how it holds up. While the trans is out of the car it's a good time to replace the gear oil.
I used Valvoline 85w synthetic gear lube. The transmission seems to shift better. Also, the clutch pedal action feels smoother with the new clutch. The engine must be supported when removing the trans because three of the four engine mounting brackets attach to the trans.
I supported the engine under the oil pan using a trolley jack. I made a wooden fixture out of 2x4's that roughly conformed to the shape of the oil pan, and bolted it to my jack. I also shimmed up a jack stand under the engine for insurance. And I made sure it was done right. Plus the wife Wendy Andretti is rather hard on the drivetrain, especially the clutch. You say you took pictures? Why not post them as part of the write-up?
Pictures always help drive home the point and make for a better How-To. FJ's Garage Thread "There is no tool you can buy that will replace experience.
Some go quickly and some don't. However, the fact that so many seem to slip with only a few thousand miles points to a problem. I bought the car from my brother-in-law with only 18, miles on it and noticed the clutch beginning to slip at about 20, One possible explanation is that the clutch wasn't broken in properly.
My brother-in-law tends to slip the clutch unecessarily between gears. I suspect that may have contributed to its early demise. Another possibility is that there were a couple of bad clutch lots from the supplier. The disc, flywheel, and pressure plate were not scoured or pitted but simply glazed to a mirror-like finish. The pressure plate had a bluish tinge which pointed to overheating. Well worth the money, to me..
Second slips just a little ,but other than that still going strong replacing soon however. I bought all the new parts but got to thinking "Why with only 68K miles and no real daily abuse should a clutch start to slip? I imagine Toyota, in an effort to make the clutch last longer designed it with a harder pad. I can make it slip if I rev, drop the clutch in 2nd from a stop but it would do that when it was new. Beware of frosty fall mornings and mountain roads. You have a Golden GT there, no doubt!!
I have had nothing but problem after problem with mine - since I bought it. I am on the 4th clutch and it just went out. I'm jealous, SO jealous. I just had to do this process completely twice due to being sold a junk transmission for the first replacement. The only thing we did on the outer axles was to remove the lower 3 bolt connection for the whole assembly. Once that was done, the shaft can come free of the transmission if someone pulls out on the assembly.
This can be done with both sides and when out, the axle can pivot 90 degrees and tie off on the front support of the car. Just make sure to break the axles free of the dif before pulling out. You'll know when the snap rings disengage and the whole thing can slide. A large pair of adjustable pliers fit around it quite nicely and provided a point of leverage to pry against. The inside of the axle doesn't have a good surface to pry on normally and you don't want to damage the dust boot.
One major thing to note is regarding the snap rings on reassembly. Make sure that the gap in the ring is hanging down when you go to snap it back in. It will go in much easier and not bind on reassembly. With my buddy coming over to help for about min to help drop and put the transmission back into position, the whole process can be done in around 6 hours and back on the road. A set of metric ratcheting wrenches makes or breaks the lowered wrenching time.
We even left the whole airbox assembly installed and only removed a single electrical connector to the transmission. You have to remove only the airbox hose to the TB and lift the filter to remove 1 screw for removing the upper engine mount.
After that you are golden and can skip a load of steps and save some serious time. Supporting the engine independently front the top makes the job much easier because nothing is in the way as you work over or under the car.